As expected, I got the dinner suit back from Cad and the Dandy the other day. Despite the changes that were needed, the whole process including two fittings has taken almost exactly two months, which is more or less what they promise. If you read my last review you'll remember that a couple of fairly serious errors were made, in the form of the wrong lining and the wrong type of silk facing being used. As one would expect, these were quickly rectified at no expense to me, and I don't bear Cad and the Dandy any ill-will as a result. I've heard more than one report of big-name Savile Row tailors making up a double breasted suit as single breasted, or vice versa, and I know that these things can happen. The important thing is that I am delighted with the final result.
Aside from the fit, the finishing of the suit is beautiful, with a number of the signs of quality tailoring visible, such as the pad stitching under the lapel that rolls it to slightly to keep it flat against the body of the suit.
There's also a good deal of hand-stitching, even on this suit where I didn't pay the extra for the fully hand-sewn construction. A particularly beautiful touch is the embroidered initials on the inside above the label. This is done by hand at no extra cost, and is so much nicer than simply having your name printed on the label as ASTF offers for an extra £20. In the picture below you can also see the way the pockets are constructed, cutting in to the material of the lapel, rather than having the suit cloth extend to wrap around them. I have always assumed that the latter method is better for reinforcing the pockets but, on the other hand, it seems less common on Savile Row and is used more frequently on more modern suits. Personally, I don't have a real preference either way, but I think in this case the more classic look is nicer and in any case it shows off more of that lovely red lining. You can also see the nice pocket buttons C&TD chose, that I hadn't even thought about when I ordered.
I really couldn't be more pleased with the suit. It's got the right mix of being perfect where it matters, but also with some of the clear signs of hand construction that give it a bit of personality. The whole process of ordering with C&TD has, despite the mistakes, been easy and enjoyable. I shall definitely be ordering from them again in the future.
New & Lingwood Spring/Summer '17
1 day ago